Developing country

This country is in serious development ! As you can see they are building power antennas everywhere! These antennas will provide more electricity to Rwanda but also power Congo in a bilateral agreement. While Europe is failing & falling behind. These countries are advancing. Hats of again to Kagame ! I have lost count now since yesterday to the Kagame high fives. I need to get invited to a U.S. congressional hearing about Rwanda because I have nothing but good things to say. (so far..)

I noticed in Rwanda the project managers of these type of programs are either Indian, Sri Lankan or Bangladeshi. They are called Mohindi’s here. So far we got the muzungu’s and Mohindi’s ;) It is amazing to see a country and its people making tremendous efforts to advance.

Day 3@Work: Bon Travail! I'm

Today I was supposed to go visit another tea cooperative far away with multiple taxi buses. When I got to the office Numerien goes: “You are really a morning person”; not sure whether he was serious or sarcastic. If he only knew my morning struggle. I was happy to hear that today I was staying in the office and maybe going to the tea microfinance and micro savings office around the corner for an immersion.

Still tired from the steep climb on the hills towards the taxi bus and the consequent suffocating ride to work (see photo) I open my laptop. All of a sudden, I feel focused, sharp and my first words for the strategic plan are being written. Yesterday, I contacted Karina Weinstein whom I met on the flight here for a possible partnership between FXB and the tea union. She had arranged that we could call the regional representative today at 11 o'clock. I didn’t want to visit the tea MFI yet till I had made the call with FXB. 10:50 Numerien starts calling. No answer. We continue calling till 11:10. The director must be in a meeting. At 11:30 we call again and someone picks up the phone but there is no clear line. We really want this partnership so I decided not to visit the tea MFI till we had someone on the line.

A large part of the strategic plan has been written since 8 o'clock. The local alarm goes off (which means it’s noon)!and Numerien wants to go lunch. I had packed my bag with fruits I had bought yesterday with him on the market and wanted to eat that for lunch. I was in the strategic plan mood and felt like continuing to write.

Numerien asked me a second time to go to lunch so I agreed. I left my laptop in the office and headed for the road. We got in a taxi bus and I realised that was the road to Gisenyi. Nooo! Please not all the way back! If I had known that I would have taken my laptop with me and worked the rest of the day on the strategic plan in the cyber cafe near the Centre D'Acceuille in Gisenyi. This meant that I would have to do a return Gysenyi - Nyundo - Gisenyi… More taxi buses and at least a loss of 2,5 hours. No wonder my working days are so long. Arrived in Gisenyi, we walk down towards Lake Kivu to go to the Bank of Kigali. Payday! Numerien was giving me my DSA till Sunday. He had been working on such a detailed contract for days and now everything had been figured out. As I am on the budget of the Union, everything has to be counted for and Numerien (they name says itself) knows how to account for as no other. I was happy I got my first Rwandan check!

We head back to the ‘hotel’ and go over the incredibly but correct contract. Numerien hands over the cash and says he was now leaving me for lunch. He was going to have lunch elsewhere because the ‘hotel food’ is too expensive for him. I immediately invited him to have lunch with me as I was cash rich now :) He had to laugh. Numerien orders as usual his favourite local beer Mutzig (sounds German to me though). He drinks his beer warm and is trying to convince me to also drink everything at room temperature. He says I shouldn’t spoil myself with cold drinks as it’s not always available. So if you are used to it and you can’t have it, your pretty much screwed. Well he has a point so I take a nice warm cola.

We are both hungry and want to eat as fast as possible so Numerien asks what is already cooked today. The waiter tells us cauliflower, peas, chips, rice and meat. No chips with rice for me anymore. So we order cauliflower, meat and rice. It takes forever for the food to come. So Numerien calls another waiter. He said we ordered noon made food and it’s been 40 minutes. The waiter laughs and says they don’t prepare food. There is no buffet. It’s a la carte. They are preparing your request in the kitchen now. I had to laugh. Why in the hell did that waiter make up such a random list of food ? Numerien was vexed and called the waiter a bloody liar for making up that list of food available. I couldn’t stop laughing. Numerien had ordered the so called prepared menu (In Belgium that would be the plat du jour) and is always sold at lower price. He was being kind and didn’t want me to have a high bill as I was treating. We got screwed though, we had to pay full price for food both of us didn’t want. Cauliflower I can miss that for a month without a problem. Numerien put the waiter in his place in a very polite and proper manner. He said he come back inspecting the level of service tomorrow. I couldn’t stop laughing. He does everything so proper.

I don’t want to be a heavy financial constraint on the organisation and told him I could speed up the work if we drop some cooperative visits. If they could transmit data I could analyse it from Gisenyi and finish by Tuesday or next Wednesday. Numerien didn’t like the idea because my work would be come invalid. On top of that the cooperatives in the union would become jealous that some saw me and others didn’t so we revise our agenda’s. I don’t want to pull all nighters to finish on time next week.

After lunch we go to downtown Gisenyi. It’s actually quite hot today and I am suffering having to walk but this is whipping my in shape. So not complaining. Numerien says I need an MTN number because half of the time no one can reach me with the tyga number. I didn’t think it was necessary but he was right. When Chantal Katmatari from BNP Paribas CSR was trying to call me she couldn’t reach me. She had to call Numerien. Oh gosh this Numerien seems to be always right. He keeps telling me everyday not to climb on the taxi mottos and he smells my eagerness. Therefore the bookkeeper comes with me to and from work. I am his responsibility and nothing will happen to me on Numerien’s time. I am safe under his control. I decided to obey to the terms and hand my life over to the taxi bus.

Coming back from the office in the taxi bus I realised that it didn’t bother me anymore. I have gotten used to sitting on half or a quarter of a butt cheek, while breathing, sweating and smelling all over each other. The taxi bus helpers are starting to know me and told Jean de Dieu (the bookkeeper) no more muzungu, she is African now. The ladies in the shops I buy water from are now saying African muzungu. That’s perfect to me! I got the respect now everywhere and don’t need to power dress for work anymore! Goodbye fancy heels.

It’s only been 5 days and this place has become home. I get happy when I get to my room event though my toilet seat is gone and they have removed my self-made living room with blankets on the floor. Home sweet home !

What I notice the most out here is that there are tons of babies. Almost every second woman is holding a baby on the back like its a purse. There is obviously a big baby boom going on. Numerien says Rwandans like to make babies everyday. So funny!

On the way home a really dirty child with banana all over its mouth jumped in the bus. I thought: oh can he ride for free ? Where are his parents ? All of a sudden all the women in the taxi bus started screaming that the child had to step out. No one dared to touch him. Like I said I have never seen a child so dirty. The women didn’t stop shouting and starting kicking the boy with their feet. I said what are you doing ? What’s going on ! It’s a child for God'sake, you don’t have to kick him with your feet. What is the problem? The lady said the child is a mentally challenged orphan who likes to act a fool. Well still no reason to kick him. The taxi bus only left after the child was removed from the vehicle. I thought it was a very strange situation and I actually don’t know what this was all about. The child looked rather sick to me, like it had lepracy ? Not sure if Rwanda has lepracy? Strange that no dared to touch him and was mean, scared. If I could, I would have given him a bath and brought him to a close by orphanage. Or maybe he ran away from the orphanage ? Not the usual behaviour I see of Rwandans.

On the way, I gave money to a beggar and asked Numerien why there is such limited poverty here. He said that all beggars were placed into cooperatives that help them end poverty. Every beggar has the right to join such an NGO. There should be no reason to live on the streets. I asked him so why is this woman begging ? He said some people just prefer it and don’t want to join the cooperative programs because then they have to work. He told me he asked a beggar once to come home with him and offered him a house job. The beggar refused. He offered him a ride to a cooperative, the beggar refused. That’s crazy! but I am happy the government through allowing NGO’s in the country is making an attempt to eradicate poverty. Kagame gets his third high five from me!

My mom and dad both found flights to Kigali but now it’s an issue of visas. Grrrrrr….. So not sure if they will make it before week 3 because then I am off gorilla trekking. It only gets better !

Oh the bookkeeper wanted to ask me a personal question. I said yes go ahead; actually wanting to say no! He said: How can I improve my English … Mannnn!!! I thought he was going to ask me about sex considering he is young and we are in a religious country… LOL… I guess I am the pervert!

It’s raining, I have my bottle of Nil water (Still adapting to the fact I am drinking purified Nile water; I always imagined the Nile to be filthy) and I am going to try calling it an early night.#tired

Day 3@Work: Bon Travail! Today I was supposed to go visit another tea cooperative far away with multiple taxi buses. When I got to the office Numerien goes: “You are really a morning person”; not sure whether he was serious or sarcastic. If he only knew my morning struggle. I was happy to hear that today I was staying in the office and maybe going to the tea microfinance and micro savings office around the corner for an immersion. Still tired from the steep climb on the hills towards the taxi bus and the consequent suffocating ride to work (see photo) I open my laptop. All of a sudden, I feel focused, sharp and my first words for the strategic plan are being written. Yesterday, I contacted Karina Weinstein whom I met on the flight here for a possible partnership between FXB and the tea union. She had arranged that we could call the regional representative today at 11 o'clock. I didn’t want to visit the tea MFI yet till I had made the call with FXB. 10:50 Numerien starts calling. No answer. We continue calling till 11:10. The director must be in a meeting. At 11:30 we call again and someone picks up the phone but there is no clear line. We really want this partnership so I decided not to visit the tea MFI till we had someone on the line. A large part of the strategic plan has been written since 8 o'clock. The local alarm goes off (which means it’s noon)!and Numerien wants to go lunch. I had packed my bag with fruits I had bought yesterday with him on the market and wanted to eat that for lunch. I was in the strategic plan mood and felt like continuing to write. Numerien asked me a second time to go to lunch so I agreed. I left my laptop in the office and headed for the road. We got in a taxi bus and I realised that was the road to Gisenyi. Nooo! Please not all the way back! If I had known that I would have taken my laptop with me and worked the rest of the day on the strategic plan in the cyber cafe near the Centre D'Acceuille in Gisenyi. This meant that I would have to do a return Gysenyi - Nyundo - Gisenyi… More taxi buses and at least a loss of 2,5 hours. No wonder my working days are so long. Arrived in Gisenyi, we walk down towards Lake Kivu to go to the Bank of Kigali. Payday! Numerien was giving me my DSA till Sunday. He had been working on such a detailed contract for days and now everything had been figured out. As I am on the budget of the Union, everything has to be counted for and Numerien (they name says itself) knows how to account for as no other. I was happy I got my first Rwandan check! We head back to the ‘hotel’ and go over the incredibly but correct contract. Numerien hands over the cash and says he was now leaving me for lunch. He was going to have lunch elsewhere because the 'hotel food’ is too expensive for him. I immediately invited him to have lunch with me as I was cash rich now :) He had to laugh. Numerien orders as usual his favourite local beer Mutzig (sounds German to me though). He drinks his beer warm and is trying to convince me to also drink everything at room temperature. He says I shouldn’t spoil myself with cold drinks as it’s not always available. So if you are used to it and you can’t have it, your pretty much screwed. Well he has a point so I take a nice warm cola. We are both hungry and want to eat as fast as possible so Numerien asks what is already cooked today. The waiter tells us cauliflower, peas, chips, rice and meat. No chips with rice for me anymore. So we order cauliflower, meat and rice. It takes forever for the food to come. So Numerien calls another waiter. He said we ordered noon made food and it’s been 40 minutes. The waiter laughs and says they don’t prepare food. There is no buffet. It’s a la carte. They are preparing your request in the kitchen now. I had to laugh. Why in the hell did that waiter make up such a random list of food ? Numerien was vexed and called the waiter a bloody liar for making up that list of food available. I couldn’t stop laughing. Numerien had ordered the so called prepared menu (In Belgium that would be the plat du jour) and is always sold at lower price. He was being kind and didn’t want me to have a high bill as I was treating. We got screwed though, we had to pay full price for food both of us didn’t want. Cauliflower I can miss that for a month without a problem. Numerien put the waiter in his place in a very polite and proper manner. He said he come back inspecting the level of service tomorrow. I couldn’t stop laughing. He does everything so proper. I don’t want to be a heavy financial constraint on the organisation and told him I could speed up the work if we drop some cooperative visits. If they could transmit data I could analyse it from Gisenyi and finish by Tuesday or next Wednesday. Numerien didn’t like the idea because my work would be come invalid. On top of that the cooperatives in the union would become jealous that some saw me and others didn’t so we revise our agenda’s. I don’t want to pull all nighters to finish on time next week. After lunch we go to downtown Gisenyi. It’s actually quite hot today and I am suffering having to walk but this is whipping my in shape. So not complaining. Numerien says I need an MTN number because half of the time no one can reach me with the tyga number. I didn’t think it was necessary but he was right. When Chantal Katmatari from BNP Paribas CSR was trying to call me she couldn’t reach me. She had to call Numerien. Oh gosh this Numerien seems to be always right. He keeps telling me everyday not to climb on the taxi mottos and he smells my eagerness. Therefore the bookkeeper comes with me to and from work. I am his responsibility and nothing will happen to me on Numerien’s time. I am safe under his control. I decided to obey to the terms and hand my life over to the taxi bus. Coming back from the office in the taxi bus I realised that it didn’t bother me anymore. I have gotten used to sitting on half or a quarter of a butt cheek, while breathing, sweating and smelling all over each other. The taxi bus helpers are starting to know me and told Jean de Dieu (the bookkeeper) no more muzungu, she is African now. The ladies in the shops I buy water from are now saying African muzungu. That’s perfect to me! I got the respect now everywhere and don’t need to power dress for work anymore! Goodbye fancy heels. It’s only been 5 days and this place has become home. I get happy when I get to my room event though my toilet seat is gone and they have removed my self-made living room with blankets on the floor. Home sweet home ! What I notice the most out here is that there are tons of babies. Almost every second woman is holding a baby on the back like its a purse. There is obviously a big baby boom going on. Numerien says Rwandans like to make babies everyday. So funny! On the way home a really dirty child with banana all over its mouth jumped in the bus. I thought: oh can he ride for free ? Where are his parents ? All of a sudden all the women in the taxi bus started screaming that the child had to step out. No one dared to touch him. Like I said I have never seen a child so dirty. The women didn’t stop shouting and starting kicking the boy with their feet. I said what are you doing ? What’s going on ! It’s a child for God'sake, you don’t have to kick him with your feet. What is the problem? The lady said the child is a mentally challenged orphan who likes to act a fool. Well still no reason to kick him. The taxi bus only left after the child was removed from the vehicle. I thought it was a very strange situation and I actually don’t know what this was all about. The child looked rather sick to me, like it had lepracy ? Not sure if Rwanda has lepracy? Strange that no dared to touch him and was mean, scared. If I could, I would have given him a bath and brought him to a close by orphanage. Or maybe he ran away from the orphanage ? Not the usual behaviour I see of Rwandans. On the way, I gave money to a beggar and asked Numerien why there is such limited poverty here. He said that all beggars were placed into cooperatives that help them end poverty. Every beggar has the right to join such an NGO. There should be no reason to live on the streets. I asked him so why is this woman begging ? He said some people just prefer it and don’t want to join the cooperative programs because then they have to work. He told me he asked a beggar once to come home with him and offered him a house job. The beggar refused. He offered him a ride to a cooperative, the beggar refused. That’s crazy! but I am happy the government through allowing NGO’s in the country is making an attempt to eradicate poverty. Kagame gets his third high five from me!

Second day at work: Visiting Coopthega.

After a 1,5 hour drive (with taxi bus ;) we arrive in Nyabhu. Coopthega is another tea cooperative that is part of the union. Numerien introduces me to the agronomist and accountant. I am free to ask whatever I want and so the list begins. It took me about 2 hours to ask everything and I am starting to understand more and more the problems facing the union and why they brought me here. More and more ideas are rising to my head in order to help the union. It’s actually not a strategic plan they want but someone who thinks outside the box and can help them to become a reputable union.

Coopthega is part of the brand Rwandan Mountain Tea supported by the Belgian Development Cooperation.

After the immersion I get the opportunity to climb into the mountains and try to cut some tea leaves myself. Goodbye sedentary life this is going to be a lot of climbing and walking today. My physical therapist is Belgium must have a ball when she reads this because ‘Francine’ never walks.

It was worth the climb, these tea cutters conduct amazing work and an incredible speed. The average tea cutting is 50 kg a day. There is a story of a girl who could hand cut tea leaves 90 kg a day. She was sent to India to teach others how to manually cut so fast. Handcut leaves have superior quality. Machine cutting destroys the quality. In the tea factory boiling room section it smells like amazing tea. I still haven’t tasted the Rwandan premium quality tea!

A delirious state of mind

This is going to be my last blog post for the night. The wifi is extremely slow hence I am typing every blog post from my iPhone 6. My laptop is unable to connect as a matter of fact I haven’t been able to connect with my laptop since I got here. I probably won’t even be able to email the business strategy. Oh well no stress at all…

At the moment I am completely delirious and I am sure it’s from those damn malaria pills. I decided to take them as I wasn’t going to be in places with A/C but those pills have me tripping.

Let me sum up which side effects it’s giving me:

1. Crazy, frightening and vivid dreams:
I am in my bed not knowing whether I am hallucinating or I am experiencing reality. It’s a really screwed twilight experience.
2. An unquenchable thirst:
In Antwerp I barely drink anything whereas here I am drinking 3 to 4 liters a day and still feel like I haven’t had a sip. I constantly have to go to the bathroom to Numerien’s amusement. (Reminder to dedicate myself a blog post to the previous toilet experience outback.) My lips feel dry and swollen. Damn it, I should have bought that chap stick at the airport. I was being cheap, I thought 12 euro was too much and now I freaking need it. I will probably be dreaming about Chapstick tonight. Fata Morgana it bloody is!
3. Random severe headaches another side effect. I am taking Dafalgan to reduce the occasional headaches but painkillers reduce the effects of the preventive pills.
4. Nausea another side effect! Motilium instant is my good friend though it reduces the effects.
5. Sleeplessness another one ! So Tylenol pm has become my guardian angel. One Tylenol pm is enough to put me in a 5 to 6 hour comatose sleep. Otherwise I wouldn’t sleep at all while I am actually sleepy. Actually it’s drowsiness during the day and sleeplessness at night.

What kind of rubbish medicine is this ?

6. It aggravates the vertigo I already have so now I have to up my doses.

I am starting to wonder whether I should continue using it ? According to my doctor yes as 1 in 10 experiences these rubbish side effects.

Well my daily cocktail exists out of Dafalgan, motilium, malaria tablet, vertigo medicine and Tylenol pm. Not the best cocktail in the world but it seems to do the trick…..

Hallucinating I am off to sleep ! Days are long working from 7 am to 17:30 from tomorrow onwards!

Lunch with Numerien : Muzungu

After visiting Coopthega, Rwanda Mountain tea we headed back towards Gisenyi. Two different taxi buses and a sleeping Francine later we stepped outside the bus in Makoko, a small town before Gisenyi where according to Numerien everything is cheap. He wanted us to get out the bus a few miles before to stretch our legs and walk to town. Secretly I was thinking damn it I was sleeping on the taxi bus. Both hungry we decided to first have lunch. I didn’t have breakfast this morning as my headless chicken routine failed and Jean- Claude (the bookkeeper) arrived 15 minutes ahead of time ! What’s up with being so crazy punctual out here?! Nausicaa just messaged me that people who studied at the missionaries you can’t beat them on the clock. Well that’s what I get for trying to rest till the last minute. I devoured some granola bars and unknown fruits I have been eating for days. So at 14:30 I was dying hungry considering we already had crossed half the country. Numerien wants me to have good food and we go and check out a few places. The food was a bit old laying in buffet warmers. I didn’t mind eating it but Numerien was afraid I would get sick so he took me to its favourite spot. It was a total shack but boy did they serve us good food! Numerien kept on telling them to be hygienic, cook the food well and serve it hot. I smelled the grilled/ barbecued food and began spontaneously drooling. Wow how amazing and clean! Numerien is giving me the most local African experience I ever had in my life! I am enjoying every bit of it. We discussed our work and our personal life. He saw I was tired from the journey and said: I see you are tired, you like the nap; it’s the African in you! We both laughed very hard. Numerien has seen me eating fruit (not knowing I didn’t have time for breakfast and I have no other choice), and wanted me to have the best fruit at the best price so he took me to the local market. Everywhere people screamed muzungu, white woman. I don’t think no muzungu had ever come here. As a matter of fact ever since being in Nyundo, Gisenyi and Nyabhu I haven’t seen a muzungu! I see there are plenty of NGO’s out here but where are they? It’s almost a mystery to me. I am guessing the areas I am visiting and the life I am living is not for muzungu’s. Every time we take the taxi bus, I am the local attraction because muzungu’s don’t take taxi bus. People are shocked, awed everywhere Numerien is taking me. Touching my hair, holding my hands and some asking for money because the muzungu is rich. Well legacy of colonisation I would say; can’t blame them. (What the locals don’t know…. ) First of all, I am not a muzungu but half a muzungu I feel like saying. However, if you start messing with this muzungu, I will screw you up. Being mulatto isn’t common here in the countryside. The population is homogeneous. When I tell them: my mother is Nigerian and my father Belgian; most people here in the country back don’t know where Nigeria is. It could be in Europe for all they care. Two countries full of muzungu’s LOL Well I can’t blame them, my mom living in South Nigeria has travelled all over Europe but never heard of Rwanda as well. Africans in general don’t travel much within the continent as travelling between countries isn’t always easy. I have asked her to come visit me but first we have to find out if there are easy connections from Port Harcourt to Kigali. My dad called me from Monrovia saying he found a connecting flight somewhere with Kenyan airways. So maybe my parents will be visiting me here in Gisenyi as they are both very curious about Rwanda. Fingers crossed that everything will work out. So my life as a mulatto is basically in Africa my natal continent; I am a white woman and in Europe my father’s homeland I am a foreigner. Technically everywhere I go I am a foreigner. My paternal grandfather had Indonesian roots and my looks take also part from there. In Brazil I’d probably pass for a local too… Never been though. As an intermixed person I don’t believe in race or nationality; it is all the same for me. I could be a Chinese passport holder looking Latino. So call me Muzungu but without the privileged treatment because no race or skin colour is superior ! Ohh and don’t rip me off because I will muzungu yo ass ;)