At 5:15 in the morning, Numerien knocked on my door. Here we go again ! Madame Francine we have to leave at 6 AM, will you be ready ? You want hot water ?Numerien ! Go Away! I was planning to get up 5:50 to be ready at 6! I don’t want water!!!! Ok Madame Francine. 6:00 o'clock Francine are you ready ? Shit! I forgot to get up! Numerien give me 5 minutes I will be readyyyyy! We were heading for a long walk to the town. Rutsiro looks like the Flemish country side. It is a very charming landscape and the buildings are very religiously Flemish. The school in town was also called Stella Maris. Go figure. We arrive in town, ready to take the taxibus but the driver wasn’t there yet. I thought to myself, Numerien you are in Africa; why did you expect him to be on time?? If it was up to me, we would have arrived late and been technically on time. I don’t know how he survives. Numerien must be waiting all the time and going loco. He got pissed off the wait so he wanted to go eat an omelette. We enter a very basic place and I didn’t want to risk eating anything. Numerien promised me it would be safe. Go ahead, I say. He had been talking about this omelette lady for 2 days. He craves her omelette all the time. The lady asked me omelette with chapatti? Chapatti Yes go ahead, for me a chapatti omelette. Numerien didn’t lie; the omelette was good but the chapatti wasn’t all that. In the meanwhile the taxi driver had arrived and we had to go. Numerien said no keep eating. He is the one late, he can’t leave without us. It’s our only way out of town. Taxibus started his engine, we ran outside. He wasn’t going to wait. Again, Numerien TIA. Numerien wanted me to have the best seat, right next to the driver. It was the worst seat ever. I fell asleep on the driver, my foot fell on his gas and my sleeping bag on the break. This was just the beginning of the ride. I was going to sit there for 7 hours. From 7 AM to 2 PM in a matatu. This was for me a hard limit. The road is impossible and with an overly packed taxibus, my mood began to change. It wasn’t until someone got on with chickens that I was getting really pissed off. My limit had been reached! I was tired, uncomfortable, suffocating and the stank of the chickens was becoming unbearable. Two chickens got lose and were acting a fool underneath the seats. A baby was crying and an old woman was sick. I gave her strepsils as I couldn’t handle the throat scraping and spitting through the window anymore. There was no end to this ride. I told Numerien that I wasn’t going to get off at Pfunda but go straight home. This was too much and it has broken me. I still have a plan to finish and right now I am beyond tired. Numerien wanted me to cash my DSA check but I couldn’t care anymore. I needed a shower and food. I arrived in the Centre in Gisenyi at 3pm. I entered the shower but the water was off. The day was getting worse and worse. After being in the shower for an hours trying to get the drops out, while handwashing my clothes. ( tip from the Dutch girls.) I went for late lunch. All of a sudden I feel a hand on my back. Numerien ! No ! Seriously! We have to go cash your check. FML! Fine! But first Francine, I noticed you got a little uncomfortable so I am giving you your going away present early. Go open it in your room, Numerien says. I go to my room and open the gift. I got so happy, it’s a Rwandan panier ! I really wanted one and he knew that. Considering the last taxibus experience, that was his way to soothe the misery. I thanked him gratefully but then he said take off the African shorts and change into long pants. There we go again ! Ugh! Obedient as I am on this mission, I change my shorts and head out to the bank. It was a 2 hour wait to cash my check. My head kept bopping as I was so sleepy. I didn’t even want the check ! Ugghhhh…. Back at the lodgement, he said we have to hide our money. No one may see it! Aghghh, Numerien this is Rwanda. No one steals here! It’s safer than freaking Dubai. Goodbye I see you tomorrow at 7AM. No blogging for me. The tiredness was too much.
Showtime ! We have arrived at the end of the second week of the mission for Exchangevzw and BNP Paribas Benevolab. It is today that I have to present the conclusions of my findings. A short version of the strategic plan. Yesterday morning I had prepared the presentation before going to Rutsereco. It was showtime ! Last night I had gone to bed way to late as I was talking to a hotel guest about the genocide. He told me how his entire family was killed. (I will dedicate a post to his story.) So when I woke up this morning, I was tired. I rushed to get perfectly dressed, heels and makeup. We were back on Day 1, power dressing was necessary. The board of administration would be present and Jean Pierre, a representative of AMIR (Association of Microfinance Agencies in Rwanda). The meeting was scheduled for 8 o'clock. I ran out the Centre D'Acceuille with my heels on, up the hill trying to catch a taxibus. I was sweating before I got in. I was scared to be late but the matatu God’s are on my side. No one got in on the way and I arrived at 7:15. Numerien wasn’t there yet. Yes! I beat him again. At 7:45 he arrives and tells me: ‘you are a morning person’! This time he meant it! He asked me to prepare for the meeting because it has moved to 9 o'clock. I thought to myself Ohhh nooo! 9:15 Nobody there. Numerien said that the President of the tea Union had given permission that I could start. The manager of the Pfunda tea cooperative joins in, the manager of the microfinance agency joins in as well and we start. Surprisingly I had no stress. The entire plan and its French words were imprinted in my head. The words roll down my tongue. Augustin joins in and Jean Pierre from AMIR arrives. I am on a roll! At the end of the presentation it was suggestion and question time. Jean Pierre gave us really good suggestions in setting up the microfinance for tea farmers branch. The head of Pfunda Cooperative wanted me as a consultant to draft him a strategic plan too. I received farewell gifts and we headed out for drinks. Jean Pierre had a vehicle with driver and without thinking I opt for that vehicle. My time with taxibus had come to an end. We arrive at a motel and order drinks. It’s not even 12 and the Mutzig starts flowing. Mutzig beer with lemon Fanta. That’s a first. I discuss with Jean Pierre intensely BNP Paribas relations and the end of the mission. Jean Pierre left for Kigali while we continued my farewell lunch. Brochettes with French fries. My favorite. Nausicaa had advised me not to eat grilled anymore but I couldn’t resist. This time it was not organs, at least that’s what I think. I say my goodbye’s and inform them that they will receive the final strategic plan in 2 weeks. I will adapt it according to the new suggestions and the information from AMIR. I am included in the strategic plan and will have a lot of following up to do. Hence, I receive the title in their organization as Business Development Consultant for the Tea Farmers Union of Crete Congo Nil. My work here isn’t done. I thank them for the lovely gifts. They apologized they couldn’t find any tea from Pfunda. Green leaves only. It’s hard to find the local tea, everything is for export and Rwandans don’t drink tea. It’s no problem for me, I have learned a lot of new things on this mission and will stay on board. One last time in the taxibus to get my stuff at the Centre and a last meeting with RIM. Reseaux Microfinance. The meeting was short but I arranged for a second one. Finally at the Centre, I pack my bags and can’t believe the amount of stuff. I have given away so much already and yet the number of bags seem to grow. Is it the gifts ? I don’t know. While I was packing my stuff, I notice all of a sudden troops of mini roaches crawling from under the mattress! I thought to myself; this is the final straw, I got to go. I woke up this morning with an entire body full of bites. I have no one to blame but myself. I have an impregnated fitted sheet for mattresses. I had removed it to go to Rutsereco and when I returned to Gisenyi, I was too lazy to put it back. No one else but Francine to blame.
Numerien and I, each with a suitcase in the hand + 2 purses and 2 backpacks walk down to the Serena at the Kivu Lake. The hotel is 5 minutes walking distance from the centre. Numerien was acting strange because his request for a small mortgage was refused for the second time in the Bank of Kigali. He was stressed all of a sudden. I felt bad and tried to give him some advice. We ran into the special representative for sanitation of the district, a native of the tea fields. He advised me to include day cares into strategic plan of the union. Why didn’t I think of it myself. Perfect! More work! Arriving at the Serena Hotel, a resort looking type of hotel, Numerien gets anxious. He doesn’t want to come inside . He said the hotel is too expensive. I said I want to buy him a drink. We give my stuff to the butlers, whom X-ray all the bags. Tight security in this hotel which is actually not needed in Rwanda. We immediately receive hot towels and drinks. I want to go to my roommmmm…. Numerien is nervous. He doesn’t like the setting. I told him someone had hooked me up with the room for free. I didn’t want him to know I was paying these prices because he would have dragged me out. Lol Finally in the room. wow I forgot about tv’s, a bath, ohhhh A/C !!! I never appreciated luxury as much as today! I have normal wifi- no more 45 minutes per upload! We are so spoiled and I am grateful. I need a mission like this every year. I am ordering room service, paying 15 USD for a well deserved glass of wine. Let my 1 week of holiday begin !
One of the lovely gifts. They tried to get me tea but it’s hard to find tea in the local market because 1) no one drinks it. The tea farmers don’t even know what tea looks like or taste like. 2) 99 percent is exported for the world market. So I received local table mats. Numerien went everywhere to have it wrapped so nicely.
Official photo with Augustin, the president of the tea Union. Having written the strategic plan, I will have to continue to follow up and execute certain items in order to help the tea farmers out of poverty! I am on board now as Business Development Consultant.
Going Away Lunch
Sorry Nausicaa! I know I wasn’t allowed to eat grilled food anymore (for the amibae) but this one was tasty and no organs on a stick :)
Last physical day at the #tea Union. I will remain on board as a business development consultant and most likely return for follow up. I wash lavished with gifts and thanked for being so courageous to push through the bare circumstances they put me through. It was all worth it !but no more taxi buses for me ! #matatu #nyundo #Rwanda (at Nyundo, Rubavu)
Tea tasting !
My liquid gold, precious hot water.
The sweetest drink ever !
Tomorrow is the final day to present my strategic plan. I will present it to the board of directors, cooperative managers and the direction of Amir. This presentation will be at 8 AM in the Pfunda offices. I am happy it isn’t 6 or 7 AM. This means that tomorrow is my last day with the tea Union before I go on a 1 week holiday in Rwanda. I arranged for my mom to join me on the Rwanda tour. I found a direct flight with Rwandair from Lagos. I haven’t seen her for 4 years so we are both excited. Today, the second last day basically, we head to go to Rubaya. This was another 4 hours in a taxibus. I can’t handle that anymore ! We were at 2400 meters and I had difficulties talking. The altitude was killing me. I explained to Numerien that we live at sea level and the altitude might cause the complications. He didn’t really understand but said hurry up finish your business and we’ll return to Gisenyi. Numerien said he was surprised to see me at the office today. I was on time and was working on my laptop outside. He was half an hour late :) He said he thought I was going to call in sick or tired and would not have mind. I was like what!? I am dead you should have told me you were dead too. We could have both stayed at home! I made it clear to him that this is the reason why I incorporated in the business plan that the union needs their own vehicle. You can’t just be sitting in overpopulated, overheated taxibus’ and expect people to work without a problem. Numerien agreed also, he got out a town before me and told me to stay awake or else I’d miss my stop. I am going to prepare for tomorrow and wish me all the best of luck!
2 day trip Rutsiro - Day 2
2 day trip to Rutsiro - Day 1
As every working day in Rwanda starts incredibly early I had to rise and shine for Rutsiro. The green bus was another adventure. It is way too big for the bumpy hilly road. The view was amazing but I fell asleep. Numerien woke me up to let me know we had arrived. We were both starving. We left at 7 AM and it’s noon time now. We went to have lunch which was a dish I call ‘everything on a plate’. Basically a small volcano on your plate of potatoes, rice, bananas, manioc, meat, carrots, peas, cabbage and red kidney beans. Awful ! Most veggies grown here are the Belgian winter veggies. I am not fan. Numerien said : 'On va bouffer’ ! I thought to myself, you are going to bouffer; this chick is going to munch a little. I asked him to finish my plate but he was too full. The bookkeeper from Cotrago came to get us and again we were in for quite the walk. In the office, I interview everyone and made a big effort trying to stay awake. Narcolepsy was hitting me again, but the days are so long ! If Rwandans wanted to advance, they had to work for it themselves. No need to wait for help. It is clear that the people have understood. I have never in my life seen such hard working people. Rwandans all mutually agree that they are here to advance and put a stop to poverty. Numerien said the same thing. He said: 'we can not slack off or we die’. Poverty is an ugly battle and hard to get out. That’s why I brought you out here, you have to help us with an action plan and I will follow it religiously. He continued: 'We are copying Europe and we will excel’. I totally loved it ! & laughed hard. Dude is a character. Dressed like a clown. Now with the skirt wrapped over the jeans I went to meet the plant manager. The plant manager looked Indian mixed with African. He spoke Kinyarwanda, understood French but replied in English with an Indian accent. I couldn’t figure him out. He must like me a mix of everything. I asked Numerien whether the man was Rwandan or Mohindi. Numerien said he is Rwandan but his behavior is different like Mohindi. I said isn’t he mixed ? Numerien said oh that’s maybe what it is. LOL Then I asked him whether the cooperative manager was Chinese and African. Numerien asked if I was feeling ok ? The cooperative manager was black but looked completely Chinese. I am sure the cooperative manager as well was intermixed somewhere in his family line. At the end of the factory visit, I got to taste the fresh finished black tea. OMG! It was delicious. In the factory I found out that all tea is made from the green leaves. I thought black tea was from black leaves. No the process to create white tea, black tea or green tea is in the factory. It has nothing to do with the leaves. Dummy ! The sun was setting and we were heading back to the cooperative office. There a random man starts talking to me and asked if I was Canadian. Canada? Out of all the countries I have been labeled, Canada is new on the list. He asked me if I wanted to have a drink in his house. Then Numerien shows up and says: Oh you have met my best friend, he is the owner of the house in which the tea cooperative resides. Hence, all the questions. I had no choice but to say yes to the house visit. Tired and packed with my backpack, sleeping bag and overloaded Salvatore Ferregamo purse, I drag myself to his house. He pulls out a pink juice, I felt my stomach turning. He pours the pink juice in wine glasses for a special occasion. His Canadian guest. I just let him call me Canada as being of Belgian origin isn’t something to be proud of in Rwanda. The awful things the Belgian colonials and Catholic missionaries did out here is horrifying. So Canada it is ! I quickly drink the pink juice which was by far the sweetest drink I ever had in my life. I think if you mix Hawain Punch with every soda pop on the planet, you’ll get the level of sweetness. Well I wasn’t going to get sick from that. After a bit of chit chat and Numerien telling him that since he has an international consultant; he had become a big man. ( A grand homme ) I had to laugh. Having an Exchange BNP Paribas Benevolab expert can elevate your status in life. Well done Numerien! We had a budget for lodging but incredibly stingy Numerien wanted to check out the cheapest lodging in town. I was sleepy and tagged along. He decided upon a church with guest rooms. The town had no electricity since a day. The convenant was dark and dirty but I was prepared. Fitted insect sheet over the bed, pop up net and sleeping bag, towels and soap. The toilet I won’t even mention but I did kill the worms on the floor. I thought the day was over and then Numerien came knocking on the door. The manager wants us all to go out for dinner and drinks. With the flashlight on my head, we hit the darkness. (Thanks Guy Callebout for the tip.) Even with the flashlight, I didn’t see anything and almost twisted my foot. Numerien knew a shortcut. A steep mini rocky path down. Seriously ? We arrived in the darkness in the town and people are swarming around me. They heard that the Canadian was in town. There I was looking like a clown, with a flashlight on my head. The head of district said they never have visitors and was sad he wasn’t informed of my arrival. He would have done a parade. Thank God that didn’t happen! I would have been completely embarrassed. We head to the bar and the guys turnt it up! They chucked down the 65 cal of beer too easily. As usual I order water. They didn’t like that, party pooper. Is it so difficult for people to comprehend that I barely drink. Well, I still hold it down though with my jokes. We had a good time and I ordered the brochettes and grilled banana. I love the grilled banana. When I was eating my second brochette, I had a strange taste in my mouth. I asked them why does the second one taste different ? They replied: oh it must be a different organ. ORGAN !? I spontaneously shouted ? Yes intestine, they replied. What ? No my lovely brochettes I had been eating was intestine? FML! I couldn’t eat anymore. #screwd After dinner we headed back in the darkness to our logement. I had asked the Church acolytes, if I could have hot water. They knocked on the door and left me a dirty plastic jerry can with hot water. With the flashlight on my head a green bucket and the dirty jerry can I make an attempt at washing myself. I treated the water as liquid gold because I would only get one. I was so grateful for the hot water that it turned out to be a pleasurable bathing experience but no way I would repeat this in the morning. Exhausted I fall asleep, not touching anything.
#whatthemediadoesntshowyouofafrica #Rutsiro is a cute little town in the mountains. Looks like the Belgian country side and it was cold up there. Rutsiro barely ever has visitors and the district head was sad he wasn’t made aware earlier of my coming. He would have planned a welcome parade for me. Luckily that didn’t happen. Rwandan #hospitality is fantastic though!! #rwandalicious #tumblr #blog #microfinancemasala